Gose and Gueuze: What they Are, and Which to Choose

As sour beers become more and more prevalent in the craft beer community, folks might have started to notice them popping up on tap lists to a point that could almost be called mainstream. If you see some of these styles, they may not be as self-explanatory as say, a brown ale or imperial coffee stout. Two such styles that are similar in name, color, and alcohol are gose and gueuze (sometimes spelled geuze). They’re both sour and originate in Europe, so let’s do a bit more to differentiate them.


Bahl Hornin’ indeed

Gose (pronounced as either “goes” or “go-suh”) is a German style of beer brewed with about 60 percent wheat malt and the addition of coriander and salt. It should have pleasant citrus tartness that originates from the lactobacillus bacteria that is added to the beer (naturally or purposely inoculated) before the boil happens. This style nearly died out in the 20th Century, but thankfully gained a second wind in the past few years due to the popularity of sour beers. While it’s not necessarily easy to brew, it is far less time-consuming than most sours, which often require months of aging in wooden barrels. Thus, more breweries are willing to brew a gose as a way to foray into the world of sours without a significant initial investment. My first encounter with the style was Anderson Valley’s The Kimmie, the Yink, and the Holy Gose, and to date, is still my favorite (although I did pick up a bottle of Sante Adairius’ gose last time I was there that I need to drink…). A quick note on the name: Boonville, CA is not only home to Anderson Valley Brewing Company, but also an extremely specific regional dialect called Boontling. In this dialect, “kimmie” means man or father and “yink” is a boy or son, so I’ll let you put two and two together.

Not pictured: Cantillon

With apologies to Miller High Life, the true champagne of beers is gueuze. It demonstrates some of the highest levels of craftsmanship in the brewing industry and takes years to make. Gueuze is a blend of spontaneously fermented sour beers called lambics, which have been aged from one to four years. Spontaneous fermentation occurs when the brewer leaves the wort (unfermented beer) out in the open overnight in a koelschip (say: coolship), which allows all of the bacteria, yeasts, and microbes to fall into it and begin the fermentation process. The beer is then put into barrels where it sits for either one, two, three, or sometimes four years. The brewer or blender, as sometimes it is a separate job, chooses the ratio of each vintage to go into the final blend, which is called gueuze. The result is a sour, layered beer with flavors ranging from mushrooms to grape must to peaches to oak. Be forewarned though, the beer usually carries a strong Brettanomyces aroma, which smells like a horse blanket or sweaty socks. Enough exposure removes the negative connotations of this aroma and clues you in to the amazing flavors that are likely to follow. The most well-known and arguably the best producer of gueuze is Cantillon, in Brussels, but a few other breweries do outstanding beers as well. Drie Fonteinen, Tilquin, and Hanssens each make gueuzes that hold up nicely to the beers of Jean Van Roy, the master of brewing and blending at Cantillon.

In a slight bit of prevarication from the title of this post, I’m not actually going to tell you which to choose, but hopefully you now have a better understanding of these two similar-at-first-glance-but-not-really beer styles. So, go forth and drink sour beer!

The Epic Bottleshare

Last month, I attended a special bottle share fundraiser at Beachwood BBQ in Seal Beach in support of one of the bar’s regulars, Mike Murray, and his family as he battles brain cancer. It was an event co-hosted by the owners of Beachwood and Stearns Liquor, a popular bottle shop in Long Beach. Gabe Gordon and Danny Dib, the proprietors of each establishment respectively, donated bottles from their own cellars and raffled off other rare bottles of beer and whiskey. Two sessions were held for three hours each and attendees were encouraged to bring their own bottles to share.

Straight Outta Alpine

I went to the second session and, figuring that most people would be bringing high ABV beers and sours (i.e. the beers that cellar the best) to share, came with a fresh growler of Underneath the Pine, the newest Pale Ale from Cellarmaker Brewing in San Francisco. I walked in and grabbed one of the dozens of clean glasses waiting to be filled with three hours of non-stop beer. Before I could even ask how the event was going to work, a bottle of Alpine Chez Monus was opened and flowing into any glass pointed in its direction. I’d never had any of Alpine’s sours but had heard nothing but glowing reviews about them and was blown away. Chez Monus (say “shame on us”) is a sour Belgian-style ale with white peaches and apricots added and aged in wine barrels. The aroma and flavor of the stone fruit leapt out of my glass and set the bar extremely high for the rest of the night. In fact, the next beer to be poured (for me, at least; there were many bottles being opened and poured concurrently) was a Cantillon Kriek. I generally consider Cantillon to be the greatest brewery in the world, or at least the best sour house, but from my initial take on the back-to-back offerings, I actually preferred the homespun sour from San Diego over the beer from Brussels.

It was at that time that I realized I was in for an absolutely outrageous night of trying some of the finest beers ever brewed. After all, my first two were rated 100 and 97 on BeerAdvocate respectively and there was a long way to go. I tried my best to write down tasting notes and talk about the beers that I was trying, but they were being opened so frequently it was hard to keep up. Here are a few of the beers I tried: DeGarde Poppy Van Ambre, Cisco’s Cranberry Woods, Jester King’s World’s Worst Twin, Horal’s Oude Geuze Mega Blend, Firestone Walker Abacus (back from when it was still called Abacus), Firestone Walker 11th Anniversary Ale, Rare Barrel’s Map of the Sun, Russian River’s Beatification, Russian River’s Framboise for a Cure, Cascade’s Sang Royal, The Bruery’s Chocolate Rain, Cantillon’s Iris, Drie Fonteinen’s Golden Blend Geuze, and The Alchemist’s Heady Topper. There were more that I tried and don’t quite remember and a few other standouts that deserve extra attention.


Seemed nice to me…

I’ve been wanting to try anything from the Maine Beer Company for a while now and got my wish that night. There was a bottle of their Mean Old Tom, a stout aged on vanilla beans, which drinks easily but has the flavor of a beer with twice the alcohol. It was sweet, roasty, chocolatey and perfectly balanced, and made me want to book a trip to New England. Another offering from the land of the Red Sox came from the Boston Beer Company, better known as the brewers of Sam Adams. Gabe, the owner of Beachwood, prepared flights of Utopias, the beer that is so over-the-top in every way that it’s not really beer anymore. The flight consisted of the 2009, 2012, and 2013 releases of the 28% ABV “beer” that’s released in miniatures copper pot stills at well over $100 a bottle. If you think of it as beer, it’s pretty awful. There’s no carbonation, way too much alcohol, and borderline offensive aromas if you sniff it like you would a beer. Treated like a hard alcohol, however, it becomes delightful. With lighter intakes of the aroma, the drink is sweet and slightly floral. The flavor is incredibly complex, with notes of dried fruit, oak, spices, and molasses all swirling around in the glass. After drinking the flight, I needed a glass of water and a Kern River Session IPA to act as a palate cleanser.IMG_4911

The growler I brought was divvied up in dozens of four-ounce pours, which zoomed around the room on serving trays held by the wait staff. I was pleased to see that so many people would be able to enjoy my contribution to the night and one whiff of the delectably piney notes of the pale ale confirmed that I would enjoy it as well. Cellarmaker brews excellent beers, but none better than their pale ales. They craft easy-drinking beers that burst with hop flavor and aroma, and Underneath the Pine is no exception. It combines pine and tropical fruit aromas by using two dual-purpose hops, Mosaic and Citra, a pine-forward hop, Centennial, and a juicy, tropical fruit hop, Motueka. These combine to be exactly the flavors I enjoy most when drinking a Pale Ale or IPA.

After this, and knowing I had work in the morning, I slowed down considerably and took the time to slowly sip some of the barleywines I had passed over during my sour beer frenzy earlier on in the night. At this time, the raffle started and two of my friends happened to win six items between them, including a Westvleteren XII and Ballast Point’s nearly-impossible-to-find Devil’s Share Single Malt whiskey. I looked around and saw that everyone else seemed to have the same contented expressions on their faces that I was wearing. It seemed we had all reached beer nirvana. It’s a state of mind that I believe we should all strive to achieve.


Even if you missed the share, you can still donate directly to the account set up to help Mike and his family here.